Reader Question

Hello!

I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX. I currently have approximately 171, XXX mile. Now the problem that I am having with my car is the RPM gauge jumps up and down while driving around town and on the highway. Once that starts, my car runs crazy. Its like my car “misses” while trying to pick up speed. Its never cut off on me but it acts like it. Sometimes I hear noises coming from under the hood, like the valves rattling when my car starts driving crazy. I was wondering if you could give me something to go by or what you think is the problem. By the way, I have changes spark plugs, wires, cap and button….basically a tune-up.

Thanks for your time and hopefully you can help me out

Lasheena

Hey there,

Seems you have already done most of the basic stuff, plug wires etc. I would next check the distributor and you will need to see a mechanic unless you can do it yourself. Those vehicles had some internal distributor issues and you might have missed a recall or a service bulletin. The tachometer gets its signal from inside the distributor. You can buy a rebuilt distributor pretty cheap at the auto parts store…..if you just want to take a guess.

Reader Question

Maybe you can help me make up my mind about buying this particular car. It is a 2000 Ford Contour, Six cylinder, the body is in real good shape. It has 123,000 miles on it. I drove it, but to me it felt a little rough. I know it is decision, but I thought you could give me another
opinion.
Thanks
Abe

Hey there Abe

That is not a very swell vehicle, I would steer clear and buy something a little newer, like a KIA Rio 2009-2011. Great price, even new, great maintenance and lots of room for a small vehicle. Test drive a new one just so you know. Most people discredit Kia because its a small car company from Korea, but let me tell you they are taking on all the big auto makers in a big way. They make great vehicles ( I own one), they are very affordable, awesome maintenance record and fuel economy.

Seriously take a test drive!

Blessings,
Austin Davis

Reader Question

Austin, thanks for the great advice you give here, it has been extremely useful. I need you input on this. I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero, 4 cyl, 2.2L Engine with 103k miles on it. Two weeks ago I tried to start my car in the morning and after 2 or 3 attempts it finally started. I immediately noticed that the engine light was flashing and the engine was running very rough.

By the way this has never happened to me before and my car usually started right away. I let it warm for 5 minutes and when I switched to drive the car was not responding as usual. When I stepped on the pedal it seemed like the gas was not getting through. I drove it less than 3 miles to work and at lunch I decided to take it to Firestone for a complete check up which is also less than 3 miles away.

I dropped the car and an hour later the Technician called me and he said that the ignition module and ignition coil went bad, because of this two of the spark plugs got damaged. Their estimate to replace the above mentioned parts was $777. I was shocked but did not have many options at that moment. I asked them about the warranty and he said 12 month/12k miles for parts and labor. I approved the estimate and picked up the car in the evening. The next day the check engine light came on again, it was not flashing but I decided to take it to the shop again. They said that since the car was only running on 2 cylinders it could have been that there were still fumes in the system and they recommended that I drive the car for a couple of more days and the light should come off.

They reset the computer but after two days the light came on again. I took it back and this time the said that the catalytic converter went bad and the shop manager gave me an estimate of 640 dollars to repair it. I obviously was furious when I heard that and I demanded an explanation, the manager said the they performed all the necessary diagnostics and it was impossible for them to diagnose a problem like that without the code. I asked them if they checked the sensors and he said the those were working fine.

I believe that my car was not diagnosed properly and although they have offered not to charge me for labor and reduced the estimate to 400 I still believe they should take responsibility for the repair. What do you think Austin? Could they’ve done a better diagnosis even without the code?

Thanks,
Jose

Hey there Jose, thanks for your email.

You did not say anything about the starting issue still being there? I am assuming they DID fix the original starting problem?? If so, then I suppose their original diagnosis was partially correct then, right? There is a possibility the catalytic converter was damaged with the engine running poorly and you continuing to drive it when it was running bad. It could have caused too much fuel rich exhaust to inter the converter. I would just drive the car for a while and see if the light goes out and stays out. Maybe take it on the freeway and really get heavy in the gas pedal and try to blow out what ever carbon build up that could be in the converter and see what happens.

I am not sure I would spend $400 to replace the converter if nothing else is wrong. I would probably get another diagnosis, preferably from a dealership in a month or two if the light is still coming on.

Let me know what happens
Blessings,
Austin Davis

Reader Question

HI Austin,

this is a general question. let’s say that you get a used car with 150, 200K+ miles, a 1994, 95 Honda civic for example. is it realistic to get a car like this one to run almost like brand new or in excellent condition if the necessary parts are replaced with new parts? for me, i would like to keep the car for a long time and not deal with monthly payments as it is a drag to make payments on depreciating assets. would you stay away from high mileage cars? thanks

Peter

Howdy Peter,

I love Honda’s but still would shy away from high mileage ones. I would bet you will spend $1200 a year maintenance stuff on this vehicle and that’s not much less than the payments on a new Kia Rio….awesome car worth your time to test drive. I bought one for a friend a few years ago new for $14K fully loaded. See if you can make a deal on a 2010 if you can find one. Warranty is the best!

Blessings
Austin Davis

Reader Question

Hi, you do a great service. Bottom line / this car has 110k miles on it and it runs great,. (its my “train” car) I live in upstate NY and the auto inspection system requires that no check engine light be on when doing the emission inspections, if it is, the inspection can not be done or the machine will stop after checking the computer.

Wouldn’t you know that i was due in August and the light came on 2 days before i went to get the sticker. So, it still runs great, great gas mileage and shifts and accelerates great, great ac and heat. The dealer turned off the light and still the machine wouldn’t do the inspection untill the computers reset, i was told. I drove it 50 miles, and they told me to come back right away, leave it running and then they would do the inspection over immediately. They tried , but light reappeared. I left it with them. I only want it to last until july 2011. I only put 2k miles per year on it going to the train station. They called me after 2 days and told me i need a fuel filler tube, its leaking emissions.

So with the fuel filler tube, labor and diagnosis and inspection it would be 230.00 including tax. I told them to do it. So after 1 month of the car being there, they couldn’t locate part and then got the wrong one, i picked up car and all was well. New sticker was on and no check engine light on—- until 2 days later, like always. the car still runs great, but now i have a new filler neck and the same light on, But i do have the sticker.

So i will keep driving it until July when the reg expires and then donate it. Was i the receiver of a misdiagnosis? I never went back or called Park Ford about this. I was just happy to be able to drive this car with a valid sticker. I figure their mechanics don’t know how to diagnose anything. They probably think they fixed it when i am out $230.00 , lost a month of service from this car, but i do have the sticker. Was i ripped off?

Hey there

Thanks!

Sounds like a bad diagnosis but hey you got your sticker. I would probably take it back and get them to check it again, worst case scenario get them to kick in the labor for free and you buy whatever part is still faulty. It is probably emission system related so they are probably on the right track but you will have a hard time selling or trading the car in with the light on.

Blessings
Austin Davis

Reader Question

Austin,

Hello and thanks for reading my email.

My problem is related to a 1996 Honda Accord with 4 cylinder V-Tech with an auto transmission. The check engine light has just come on and the engine does not sound good at all. It has a rough idle and there is a noticeable loss in power and acceleration. When I give it gas while driving the motor vibrates and not in a good way.

Before this occurred I have spent 1200$ on repairs in a 5 week time period. I took it in for a routine oil change and the mechanic showed me that the car was leaking oil from the rear. It turned out to be the rear main seal and I had that replaced.

Not 1 week after, my transmission began to act up and within 2 weeks of getting the oil seal replaced my transmission goes out completely. I have a different mechanic do the rebuild and all seems fine.
That same week after getting my car back my motor begins to overheat, and I take it into a nearby chain to have them figure out what is causing it. Turns out to be a bad radiator hose.

Now it is the following weekend and this has happened to my car. I am at a loss at what to do and really just want to get rid of the car now.

thanks for any help you can provide.

Mario

Well hello there Mario

This could be something simple like a bad spark plug wire or spark plug or a vacuum leak under the hood causing a miss. Orrr it could be something much worse like a headgasket or vale problem due to engine overheating.

I would rule out the wires and plugs and vacuum leak first then if you still have a problem have a compression test done to see if there is internal engine damage which might cost more to repair than the car is worth

Blessings
Austin Davis

Reader Question

Greetings, Here is a question for you. I have a 99 Buick Century 3.1l V6 in the shop now for inspection. It is making a loud noise which I assumed to be under the driver’s seat area and to be an exhaust issue, but what do I know? I wrote a note to the mechanic telling him as much. He called to tell me that the engine is knocking really loudly. He said something inside the engine has collapsed. He suggested no tests or remedy but to add a Lucas product, baby it, and then unload it when we are ready. I have used 10W-30 oil. Could that be too light? I live in PA. He is not telling me I need an expensive repair, so he is not trying to rip me off. So, how do I process this info and proceed?
Thank you,
Scott

Hi there Scott

I would try to get more information from your mechanic about the noise. Is it from a rod or main bearing deep inside the engine or is it from on top o the engine like from a valve or lifter in which case the lubricating oil he recommends might actually help. If it’s from a rod or main bearing the engine is pretty much toast and will be very costly to repair.

I also would get another mechanic to listen to the noise and get their opinion if they think it is a lifter or top engine noise or a more costly bearing type noise. I would hate to see you junk the car for a noise that could be simple to repair.

A used engine might be a more cost effective method of repair if the noise is from a bearing or piston. $2500 or so. A valve job might be the worst case scenario for a lifter or valve type of noise on the top of the engine, $1000 or so.

Marvel Mystery Oil additive which is available at most auto parts stores would be a better additive than Lucas for a lifter or valve noise

Blessings
Austin Davis

Reader Question

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 150000 miles. After I dive my car for a while, I go to a gas station, stop the car, fill the gas tank, then it’s hard to start my car Properly. I can actually start the car, but the car/engine does not run smoothly, it idles a little bit. The car will stop after a while (not driving) of if I drive it. Usually I have to start the card several times till the car engine runs smoothly. This problem is getting frequently now. The car is easy to start when the engine is cool/cold.

I took the car to a repair shop last week, the guy cold not find the causes of the problem. So he did not repair it.

Thanks.
Duixian

Hello there,

I would ask your mechanic to inspect and clean the throttle body, it should be done as maintenance at this mileage regardless if it corrects the problem. It’s cheap and fast to do and should greatly improve idle performance.

Blessings
Austin Davis

Reader Question

I have a 2008 Dodge Avenger and the other day I had to add some antifreeze and I rushing to get on the road and I forgot to put the cap back on and I drove for about 20 minutes. The gauge was higher than normal and I decided to turn around and go home and swap out vehicles. Then the car started overheating with steam/smoke coming from under the hood. I turned the car off and waited for the car to cool down and then I tried to start it again but it wouldnt start ~ it would crank over but it wouldnt start.

So I waited a little while and I added some water and I tried to start it again and all it does is click thatБ─≥s it. My father in-law tried jump starting it but nothing happened. Any idea what it could be? Why my car wonБ─≥t start? The starter? The battery? The motor (seized)? The lights work on the car. So I am at a lost. I still owe about $13k on this POS. Any help/suggestions/ideas you can come with would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. I know you are busy.

Hi There!

I would make sure everything under the hood is DRY….all electical connections etc. etc. If the engine turns over but wont start, I would suspect a sensor got coolant on it and needs to dry out. If the engine will NOT turn over, like dead battery then I would make sure the battery is charged and alll battery connections are tight.

I dont think you have internal damage, but something simple is probably still wet and needs to dry out.

Austin Davis

Reader Question

Hello there, how are you?

First, I want to thank you for sharing mechanical information in your website, it is helpful and we save money, I do appreciate your wonderful help. I have a couple of question for you, if you do not mind.

I read the article in your website about changing the transmission fluid and filter for old cars, my question is: What if you change the filter only, and use the same old transmission fluid?
is this recommended?

Thanks for your help.
God bless your family.

Thanks for the kind words

HI there!

Thanks for your kind words and the blessings….same to you and your family as well.

Changing just the filter will probably not really do much of anything. if you are experiencing any kind of slipping or late shifting problem it will more than likely require a new transmission or a transmission overhaul to correct the problem. Flushing the fluid, or changing the filter are pretty much just part of regular maintenance and rarely correct a problem….they are replaced to help prevent them in the first place.

Just like changing your engine oil and filter after your engine starts to make funny noises, chances are the damage is already been done and replacing the oil or filter is not going to do anything to correct it BUT not changing the oil and filter was probably the cause of the engine noise.

Understand?

I would really advise you to take the vehicle to a transmission shop and have them test drive the vehicle with you and let them give you their opinion. Just remember, very little transmission work can be done with the transmission still attached to the vehicle, so be prepared to have the transmission removed and taken apart…..and there is no going back once that happens.

Blessings,

Austin Davis